'Diving Into Taiwan' — Penghu: A Stunning Collision of Cultural Heritage and Natural Landscapes, an Offshore Island Full of Surprises at Every Turn

Penghu lies to the west of Taiwan's main island and is Taiwan's largest offshore island. Volcanic basalt formations spread across the entire archipelago, creating dive environments unlike anywhere else in Taiwan. The interplay between basalt formations born of volcanic eruptions and sea-eroded terrain produces a richly varied landscape that is one of the must-see highlights of any visit to Penghu. Situated between mainland China and Taiwan, Penghu has been a strategically contested territory since ancient times, which is why the island is dotted with fort ruins, tunnels, and temple heritage sites. The result is a remarkable island where human history and natural wonder collide — a destination we highly recommend.

How to Get to Penghu

There are many ways to reach Penghu, including by air and by sea. We have listed the available options below:

By Air:

From Taipei Songshan Airport to Penghu: frequent daily flights operated by Uni Air, Far Eastern Air Transport, and Mandarin Airlines.
From Taichung Ching Chuan Kang Airport to Penghu: scheduled daily flights operated by Uni Air and Mandarin Airlines.
From Kaohsiung: scheduled daily flights operated by Uni Air and Mandarin Airlines.

By Sea:

Chiayi: You can take a speedboat from Budai in Chiayi to Penghu; the crossing takes approximately 80 minutes. When seas are rough, it is advisable to take seasickness medication before boarding. Ferry companies to choose from include Man Tian Xing, Triumph No. 6, Triumph No. 3, Tai Ji Zhi Xing, Bai Li Lun, and Happy Star, among others.
Kaohsiung: You can travel by the Taiwan Ferry (Tai-Hua). The Tai-Hua is a large vessel that can even carry your car onboard, and the larger tonnage means far less seasickness. Sailings depart in both the morning and the evening, so you can choose based on your itinerary — watching the sunrise from the deck at dawn is a wonderful option.

澎湖潛水 — If you're flying from Taipei Songshan Airport, remember to head to Terminal 2 for your departure

Getting Around Penghu

The main island of Penghu is quite expansive and is broadly divided into the North Ring and South Ring routes. Each can easily fill a full day of sightseeing as you savour Penghu's distinctive scenery. Although the county government has arranged shuttle bus services, for the sake of itinerary flexibility we recommend getting around the main island by scooter. While riding a scooter along the sea breeze is a wonderful experience, local police are very strict about helmet enforcement — be sure to wear one at all times!

Eating in Penghu

Penghu is blessed with an extraordinary wealth of local food. Since the island's economy revolves almost entirely around fishing, the catch varies between winter and summer, meaning you can enjoy incredibly fresh local seafood throughout the year. Don't hesitate to ask your guesthouse owner for their recommended seafood restaurants. Beyond that, popular Penghu souvenirs such as black sugar cake and XO sauce are well worth picking up to bring home. In short — when you come to Penghu, make sure you eat well and eat local!

Here we'd like to recommend two beloved local eateries, both long-standing neighbourhood institutions that serve honest, flavourful food. Eating here not only lets you savour the natural sweetness of fresh ingredients, but also lets you live like a true Penghu local. The first is Penghu Fishing Harbour Noodle Shop, recommended to us by Brother Ye of Island 77. Tucked beside Penghu's yacht harbour, this unassuming little place is almost always packed — and the fact that most of the customers are locals and fishermen tells you everything you need to know. Order a bowl of noodles and a few side dishes for a delicious, wallet-friendly meal (the pig's tongue and braised tendon are absolute must-orders). The broth is deeply flavourful, and we highly recommend it as your very first meal upon arriving in Penghu.

Penghu Fishing Harbour Noodle Shop

Address: No. 4-1, Linhai Road, Magong City, Penghu County 880

The second restaurant we recommend is Jinsuo Harbour Eatery. Located in Suogangning, about a 30-minute ride from Magong, it's best visited when you're exploring the South Ring of the main island — and you can combine it with a stop to admire the North and South Stone Towers of Suogang. The must-order dishes here are the glutinous rice cake and zongzi rice dumplings — dipped in sauce, they are simply sublime. The clear, delicate broth of rice noodle soup made from locally caught jiazhi fish is another highlight. The side dishes are all well-seasoned and full of flavour. Since you've already made the journey out this far, fill the table and take your time enjoying every bite!

Jinsuo Harbour Eatery

Address: No. 1671, Suogang Li, Magong City, Penghu County 880

The Cultural Side of Penghu

Situated between Taiwan and mainland China, Penghu has documented historical ties to the mainland dating back to the Yuan Dynasty. From the Ming Dynasty onward, the arrival of the Age of Exploration thrust Penghu onto the world stage, drawing the Dutch, the French, Ming loyalists, the Qing imperial court, and Japanese colonial rule in succession. Across this archipelago of 90 islands — Taiwan's largest offshore group — these influences have sparked a rich cultural tapestry. When you visit Penghu, be sure to seek out the magnificent historical sites left behind by each of these eras.

War Heritage

Penghu's main island likely has the highest density of military forts anywhere in Taiwan. Beyond the well-known West Islet East Fort, West Islet West Fort, and Jinguito Fort, many other fortifications are tucked away in various corners of the islands. Exploring carefully may well lead to surprising discoveries — some forts were used successively by the Qing Dynasty and the Japanese colonial administration, and their architecture conceals layer upon layer of military ingenuity well worth examining closely. That said, the county government has not fully developed these sites as visitor attractions; if they were restored and presented in the way Japan manages its historical sites, they could become truly remarkable heritage destinations.

A Confluence of History

Beyond its forts, Penghu has many other heritage sites worth visiting. The most visible traces today are those left by Han Chinese settlers during the Qing Dynasty, including places of worship and historic villages. Certain special structures — such as lighthouses — have been kept off-limits for security reasons, which has helped preserve their original character, making them favourite spots for photography enthusiasts.

Penghu is said to have three abundances: elderly residents, temples, and nightclubs. Across Penghu's 90 islands, 19 are inhabited — yet there are 180 temples, of which 120 are dedicated to the Wangye deity, while Mazu temples are actually a minority.

The Natural Side of Penghu

Penghu is composed of basalt formed and cooled after volcanic eruptions. The distinctive basalt structures, sculpted further by marine erosion, have created a diverse array of unique landforms spread across both the main island and the outlying islands — sites that reward careful observation on any visit to Penghu. Some of the smaller islands have even been designated as seabird sanctuaries, helping to preserve the biodiversity of Penghu's wildlife. When visiting sea-eroded landform sites, please stay on the designated paths to avoid the risk of slipping and injury.

Scuba Diving in Penghu

Penghu sits in the middle of the Taiwan Strait, where the gently rising seabed allows warm Kuroshio Branch Current waters and the nutrient-rich China Coastal Current to bring abundant nourishment to the surface layer. This feeds thriving communities of both soft coral and hard coral, which in turn attract schools of migratory fish — making Penghu one of Taiwan's most important traditional fishing grounds. The fish species found here differ considerably from those on Taiwan's main island, so diving in Penghu offers a genuinely distinct range of marine life encounters.

In recent years, thanks to active government promotion and the attention of countless ocean advocates, the Southern Four Islands have been designated a national park and their ecosystems have gradually been recovering their former richness. This marine area is known as Taiwan's "species seed bank," meaning its ecosystem and environment are exceptionally well-suited for nurturing marine life. The Southern Four Islands encompass the four main islands of Dongyu Ping, Xiyu Ping, Dongji Island, and Xiji Island, along with 13 surrounding islets.

Penghu's winters are dominated by the northeast monsoon (October through March), while summers bring the southwest monsoon. The island records strong winds on as many as 223 days per year, leaving only 132 days suitable for water activities. The recommended season for scuba diving is July, August, and September — and even then, sea conditions before and after typhoons can further reduce viable diving days. In short, the window for diving in Penghu is narrow. Annual average sea temperature is 23.7°C; winter water temperatures range from approximately 12°C to 26°C, and summer temperatures from 23°C to 31°C.

Currents in the Penghu area are primarily influenced by the China Coastal Current and the Kuroshio. Except during extreme weather events such as typhoons or cold surges, the current flows steadily in a consistent direction. Special attention should be paid to tidal changes — in certain areas, the local topography can generate sudden whirlpool currents (what divers colloquially call "washing machine" currents). Divers should exercise particular caution and it is advisable to avoid diving during periods of tidal change. When planning any diving activities, please contact a dive shop and boat operator familiar with local waters in order to minimise risk.

Dongji Island & Xiji Island Dive Sites

Dongji Island is composed of basalt terrain. Apart from sandy beaches on either side of the harbour, most of the coastline consists of sea cliffs and is not suitable for shore diving. Coral reefs extend around the entire island; the shallow flats on the eastern side offer calm waters ideal for snorkeling, while the northeast area, near the wave-cut platform, features rich topography and abundant fish life suited to recreational diving. The "Lavender Forest" area in front of Donggong Temple sits at a depth of only 3–5 m, where an impressive expanse of purple coral can be appreciated by snorkelers — making it an excellent wide-angle photography dive site.

Popular dive sites: Donggong Front, Daping Front

Xiji Island's coral reefs are concentrated along its southern side. The sea around the island features rich basalt formations, and large garland-type fleshy soft corals abound, with fish schools weaving in and out among them — making it an excellent choice for a dive trip.

Popular dive sites: Flower Ring Park, Xiji Castle

Dongyu Ping & Xiyu Ping Dive Sites

Dongyu Ping is a mesa-type basalt landform. The dominant coral families here are Acroporidae, Poritidae, and staghorn corals. The eastern side of the island features boulder reef and Five-Metre Reef formations, where rocky outcrops rise dramatically from sandy seafloor, creating varied and interesting terrain. Currents run moderately strong, flowing from southeast to northwest. Sea erosion features such as surge channels and sea caves are prominent here, and fish life is abundant.

Popular dive sites: Tazai North, Laizaiwei, Five-Metre Reef, Boulder Reef, Zhongzi West, Erwei South

Xiyu Ping is a Penghu natural ecology reserve; landing on the island and diving in the surrounding waters are not permitted. Nevertheless, its towering sea cliffs and surrounding islets make it a highly sought-after dive destination. According to a 2009 survey, Xiyu Ping has the highest coral coverage rate among the Southern Four Islands, which means its coral ecosystems and marine species diversity are comparatively rich.

Popular dive sites: Ecology Corridor, Qingtian Rock, Xiyu Ping North, Sandy Maze

海編"布魯陳"

我是布魯陳，平常喜歡帶著大相機下海找生物，如果你有海洋議題歡迎找我聊聊，約我吃飯更歡迎！