The Editor says: Freediving has become a hot topic in recent years, with young people and influencers sharing stunning underwater photos on social media — guys showing off their six-packs, girls rocking their bikinis, all set against sunshine and crystal-blue water. It's the perfect escape from everyday worries. But for any freediver who wants to look the part, the mask is everything. Knowing how to choose the right mask is an art in itself, so let's take a look at the tips shared by Liquid Vision 自由潛水合作社 on how to pick a freediving mask!
How to Choose a Freediving Mask?
The type of mask we're referring to here is one that covers both the eyes and nose — not other types such as liquid masks or Hektometers. Whether you're about to enter the world of freediving or are simply looking to buy a new mask, the following should be a great help when it comes to making your choice.
"Volume"
As you descend, water pressure causes the air inside the mask to compress, and the mask begins to squeeze against your face — at which point you need to equalize the pressure. For freedivers, however, every bit of air is precious, so a lower-volume mask is generally more suitable for freediving.
Note that I used the phrase "lower volume" — not "the smaller the better." So let's talk about some things regarding mask volume that you may never have considered before.
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First of all, volume is not a fixed number — and that will surely make a lot of people go "What!!!!!" Because everyone's face shape is different, the volume marked on the mask in cc is not necessarily the actual volume once the mask is on your face.
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How do masks achieve a smaller volume? Common methods include reducing the size of the lens and skirt, and positioning the lens closer to the eyes. This means whether the mask's shape actually fits your face becomes a critical question.
So when it comes to finding a low-volume mask that suits you: a great deal depends on your face shape, rather than simply chasing the lowest volume number. If the mask doesn't seal properly and leaks, it's not the right mask for you. (Of course, leaking can have many causes — it's not always just a matter of face shape.)
"Lenses"
Most lenses are made from tempered glass, while a smaller number are made from plastic (such as the very popular Aqualung Sphera). So what are the differences between tempered glass and plastic lenses?
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Tempered glass is generally marked on the lens itself — either spelled out in full or indicated with a simple "T."
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Prescription lenses will not display the "tempered glass" marking, but they are still made of glass, just like eyeglass lenses.
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Plastic lenses offer greater flexibility, so they can be curved to follow the contour of your face.
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Because they are plastic, they scratch easily.
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Curved plastic lenses can cause visual distortion around the edges, and a small number of people may experience dizziness when wearing them.
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Regardless of material, the lens must be securely fitted into the frame to achieve a proper seal.
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Plastic lenses fit less securely in frames and have a shorter lifespan.
[caption id="attachment_5290" align="aligncenter" width="720"]
Prescription lenses with the "T" abbreviation visible at the top[/caption]
If your lenses are marked with "tempered glass," be aware that during the heat-treatment process, a thin silicone film forms on the surface. This film causes moisture to cling easily and leads to fogging, so it must be removed before you can start defogging the mask properly.
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The "Tempered" marking[/caption]
Removing the film is simple: apply toothpaste to both the inner and outer surfaces of the tempered glass lens, scrubbing in circular motions as thoroughly as possible until the toothpaste dries, then wash it off with dish soap. Repeating this process several times should remove the surface film. Some people use a lighter to heat the lens until the silicone film chars and then wash it off — but since I personally don't like the fire method, I won't go into detail about it here.
As for defogging: the most natural method is saliva (recommended), or a tiny amount of toothpaste (do not use on plastic lenses — it will scratch them), or a commercial defog solution. The one critical point to remember is the lens must be completely dry before applying any defog agent — this is very easily overlooked. Water acts as a barrier itself; wetting the lens first will prevent the defog agent from adhering properly. (This is also why saliva is recommended in the first place — it's infinitely available and environmentally friendly.)
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A plastic lens — scratch marks from use are clearly visible at the top[/caption]
Finally, one very important point: freediving lenses must be clear. This allows your dive buddy to clearly read your eyes and fulfill their role as a buddy properly.
"Frame Design"
Mask frames come in two designs: framed and frameless. A framed design, as the name suggests, has two lenses mounted in a rigid frame — similar to eyeglasses. Frame materials vary widely, from the most common plastic to aluminum alloy and even stainless steel.
As for frameless designs, practically speaking, the lenses still have a surrounding frame. Frameless masks fall into two categories:
- The frame's nosepiece is slightly flexible and can bend slightly to follow the contour of your face.
- Each lens has its own individual frame, but the bridging nosepiece connecting the two frames is omitted.
[caption id="attachment_5291" align="aligncenter" width="720"]
A model with a flexible, bendable frame[/caption]
When trying on a mask, how do you check how the frame interacts with your face? First, gently press the mask against your face in a natural position, then begin inhaling through your nose to gradually compress the mask against your face. At this point, check whether any part of the frame comes into contact with — or presses into — your face.
If it does, this mask is not the right fit for your face shape. In practice, the most common pressure point tends to appear between the eyebrows — so pay close attention to that area.
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A top-down view clearly showing the way the frame deforms[/caption]
"Skirt"
The skirt is also an extremely important component, yet it's very easy to overlook. Most people say the softer the skirt the better — better seal and more comfort. In reality, that's not necessarily true.
An overly soft skirt has poor structural support and is easily affected by water pressure, causing the mask to press against your face sooner than expected. This can sometimes force you to equalize the mask earlier than necessary just to relieve the discomfort. As a general rule: when choosing a mask, how well the skirt conforms to your face shape matters more than how soft it is.
Another commonly overlooked part of the skirt is the lower edge of the nose pocket. The size, angle, and shape of the lower edge of the nose pocket are all closely related to whether water leaks in from the bottom — and of course, so is how you position the mask on your face. Asian faces, which tend to be flatter, are at a slight disadvantage when choosing low-volume masks. Identifying these small details and learning how to adjust your fit accordingly becomes critically important.
"Nose Pocket"
The nose pocket is probably the part most people choose to ignore — at most, it gets a passing mention that it should be easy to pinch. In most cases, however, how easy the nose pocket is to pinch has little direct correlation with the nose pocket itself. It mainly comes down to whether the mask's angle is compatible with your face shape — unless you have a particularly large or small nose.
In Taiwan, most people struggle with masks whose angle doesn't suit them, or find their nose is too small to pinch comfortably for equalization. Most people try to solve this with one of two methods:
- Press and squeeze the nose pocket as hard as possible to try to reach the nose.
- Wear the mask higher so the bottom of the nose pocket sits right against the nostrils, making it easier to block them.
Both of these are poor workarounds. The first method makes the nose pocket prone to leaking, while the second can cause your soft palate to get inadvertently suctioned closed during descent as the mask compresses, making equalization more difficult.
"Mask Strap"
A well-designed mask strap must connect securely to the frame. A small number of frameless masks attach the strap to the skirt instead — this can affect the seal, so the skirt is made much larger to compensate for the reduction in structural integrity.
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Various mask straps with different adjustment mechanisms — connection points attached to the frame[/caption]
Additionally, when using a snorkel, a strap that isn't connected to the frame can allow the snorkel to pull on the skirt and cause leaks. Similarly, when not using a snorkel keeper clip, inserting the snorkel into the side of the mask can also cause leaking. Without a snorkel keeper clip, it is recommended to route the snorkel behind the back of the head. If you're worried about it falling off, you can use a figure-eight ring to secure it, or pair it with a snorkel float sleeve.
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A float sleeve and figure-eight ring[/caption]
Remember: the side of the mask is not a good place to attach your snorkel.
"Summary — Key Points for Choosing a Mask"
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Without the mask strap in place, gently inhale through your nose and see whether the mask naturally suctions onto your face.
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Then slowly inhale through your nose until you feel pressure, and check whether any part of the frame presses against your face.
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Check whether you can easily pinch your nose, and try equalizing a few times to see if any air leaks from your nostrils.
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Check whether there is adequate space between your nose and the nose pocket.
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Verify that the mask strap functions properly, holding the mask firmly to your face and maintaining an airtight seal.
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Once all of the above conditions (1–5) are met, choose the option with the smaller volume.
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Cover photo: Photo by Sebastian Pena Lambarri on Unsplash
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