The Editor says: Tateyama in Chiba Prefecture is just a 1.5-hour drive from Tokyo, and its most famous attraction is "Shark City," where you'll find yourself instantly surrounded by sharks the moment you descend. If you're lucky, during your 5-metre safety stop you might even spot cormorants (鵜) diving down from above to steal fish right before your eyes. Come take a look with the Editor! <Full article reprinted from: 3小a的隨手拍寫>
Local Dive Shop: BOMMIE
If you're not travelling to Japan specifically for scuba diving but are curious about what interesting dive sites exist near Tokyo, Tateyama on the Boso Peninsula in Chiba Prefecture should satisfy your curiosity. In Hazama you'll find an underwater shrine and the star attraction of the Humphead Wrasse, and a 10–15 minute drive away in Ito you'll find Shark City — where you can get up close with large numbers of banded houndshark — plus Stingray, and during safety stops there's a chance to watch cormorants dive-hunting underwater. This time, limited time meant only Ito was on the itinerary, so here's a brief introduction to getting there by bus from Tokyo and a recommended local dive shop: 「BOMMIE」.
How to Get to BOMMIE
Remember to make a reservation with the dive shop before your visit. 「BOMMIE」 can communicate in English as well as Japanese. Once everything is confirmed, it's recommended to purchase your bus ticket one or two days in advance at the "JR高速バスのりば" (JR Express Bus Terminal) at the Yaesu South Exit of Tokyo Station. The service to buy is the 房総なのはな1号 departing at 06
in the morning — just buy a ticket all the way to the final stop, "Ito Fishing Port" (伊戸漁港).Since you'll be riding to the last stop, there's no need to worry about oversleeping — feel free to catch some shut-eye on the bus. The boarding point is at bus stand No. 6, in front of the ticket office. For the most up-to-date timetable and boarding information, always defer to what the ticket office says, or refer to the dive shop's website for transport details — the information in this article is for reference only. The bus is actually quite comfortable and easy to sleep on. Barring any delays, you should arrive at Ito Fishing Port at 08
. Perhaps because I'm a foreigner, a staff member was already waiting at the bus terminus when I stepped off. For divers bringing personal gear, there's ample space in the lower compartment of the bus, so no need to worry about storage.A Warm and Charming Dive Shop
The lounge area at 「BOMMIE」 looks simple at first glance, but it truly has everything you need — tables, chairs, shark plushies, a microwave, a refrigerator, a sink, and an electric kettle are all provided. For a hot drink, there are tea bags and coffee; for something cold, iced tea awaits in the fridge. Honestly, the only downside is the lack of air conditioning in summer, which can get a bit warm — but otherwise, it really does have it all.
Following the usual routine, you'll be handed a simple form to fill out — this is standard practice whether you're diving in Taiwan, the Philippines, or Japan. The abundance of adorable shark plushies inevitably tempts you to pick one up for a photo. You'll also spot 「BOMMIE」's cute shark logo. Free Wi-Fi is available in the lounge as well. Just outside is a simple rinse shower for when you exit the water, along with equipment washing and drying areas. There are plenty of wash tanks with generous space, so no need to worry about finding a spot.
Across the road from the lounge is the dive shop's main office building, which houses the post-dive shower facilities — divided into changing and shower areas, complete with shampoo and body wash. Just bring your own towel.
Inside the office, there's a nice selection of cute souvenirs, stickers, and T-shirts on sale. After your dives and a rinse, it's well worth stepping inside to — ostensibly — cool off in the air conditioning (wink) and browse the merchandise (seriously). These facilities were completed in mid-June 2023, so everything still looks brand new. Payment is also handled here — but please note that 「BOMMIE」 does not accept credit cards; cash only.
What to Eat at BOMMIE
If you want lunch, you can bring your own food or instant noodles from Tokyo, or head to the fishing port canteen right next to the dive shop. When the canteen is closed, the staff can help you order a delivery — on the day I visited, the canteen was shut, so I had a staff member order me a ginger pork rice bowl. It's worth checking with the staff at 「BOMMIE」 whether the canteen is open that day, so you don't end up hungry — after all, diving burns a lot of calories and you'll need to refuel. The area around the canteen also has a lovely view perfect for photographs, and soaking up some sun during the surface interval is a pleasant way to pass the time.
Time to Dive
Once your gear is checked and ready, load it onto the vehicle. The staff will conduct the briefing right in the lounge. There are essentially three dive sites here: Okimae-ne, Okimae-ne East Buoy (東ブイ), and Okimae-ne West Buoy (西ブイ). Since most people come to Ito specifically to see sharks, Shark City — located at the Okimae-ne East Buoy (東ブイ) — is almost always on the dive plan.
The briefing covers site introductions and also specifically reminds divers to follow the rules — such as holding the descent line as soon as you enter the water, and how to grab the line and step up the ladder wearing fins when returning to the boat (the darkened rungs in the diagram are the ones to step on). The scuba tanks at 「BOMMIE」 are steel tanks. Because the boat is compact, divers gear up on shore before boarding. Tight as it is, everyone still gets a seat, and it only takes a few minutes from the harbour to reach the dive sites.
"Shark City" — The Dive Site Where Sharks Surround You
The dive guide (DM) on this trip was the owner, 塩田さん — you can also call him KANさん. He's easy to spot underwater, always wearing a white helmet and a brightly coloured wetsuit on his arms. Shortly after descending along the line, you'll see sharks cruising below — each one roughly 1.5 to 2 metres in length. The depth is approximately 18–20 metres, and an Open Water Diver (PADI/SSI cert) certification is sufficient. That said, the bottom is sandy, so take care not to kick up sediment and ruin everyone's photos and videos.
The moment the sharks spot KANさん, they seem to know food is on the way — and no exaggeration, an entire school surges towards him at once. Within seconds, KANさん is completely surrounded by a swarm of sharks. If you want to be in the thick of the action, stick close to KANさん.
You'll also notice sizeable Stingray, Grouper, and Humphead Wrasse swimming nearby. Much like the sharks, these Stingray have been in regular contact with divers for so long that they show no fear — they'll glide right over your head or press up against your body. Do these creatures, who look so formidable on the outside, carry souls as gentle as a dog's on the inside?
Unless absolutely necessary, it is still recommended not to touch marine life, and when using a selfie stick, be careful not to injure them. Tapping or kicking these fish with your hands or feet is strictly prohibited. Although they have low aggression, that doesn't mean they won't attack at all. It's understandable that when so many large fish are swarming around you, it's hard to ignore their presence — but the feeling in the moment is probably more exhilaration than panic. Wearing gloves during the dive is advised; while a bite from a banded houndshark won't cause serious injury, it's still best to avoid getting hurt.
To those who place great importance on marine ecology, this kind of feeding behaviour may seem problematic and controversial. I took the time to research the background behind it, and learned that the practice originated because of the fishing port right next door — fishermen frequently caught sharks as bycatch, or found sharks entering their set nets to eat the catch and destroy the nets. By feeding the sharks in this controlled way, local fishermen's losses were significantly reduced, while the area gained a tourism reputation that attracts divers from far and wide to "Shark City." Perhaps for the local community, the fishermen, and the sharks alike — everyone wins.
Cormorants Diving for a Meal
As the dive winds down and you perform your safety stop, if you're lucky you may witness a カワウ (great cormorant) plunging into the water to hunt — an experience that inspires a truly peculiar feeling.
There you are, hovering at 5 metres, and you see a bird — a creature that by all rights should be soaring through the sky — suddenly appear beside you underwater. The fish in the area are mostly considerably larger than the cormorant itself, so you get to watch the amusing spectacle of it giving a fish a tentative peck, realising it simply can't get a grip, and swimming off to find a more manageable target. After completing the safety stop, head up following the procedure from the briefing — but once on board, don't linger at the ladder; move towards the bow so you don't block the next person coming up.
While everyone loads back on and the boat prepares to return, you'll see staff members pull out a bag of small fish to feed the seagulls — and they'll pass some to the divers to try feeding the gulls themselves. Since the boat keeps moving, you'll sometimes catch the mesmerising sight of a seagull spreading its wings and hanging seemingly motionless in mid-air.
When the diving is done and you're about to rinse your gear or head for the shower, remember to check with the staff about the return bus time. They may escort you to a nearby bus stop, or drive you to Tateyama Station to catch it — they'll sort out the details. The bus terminates at Tokyo Station's Nihonbashi Exit.
Full article reprinted from: 3小a的隨手拍寫
Editor: Jenny Tsai
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