On a clear day, you can see Taiwan's coastline from Yonaguni. After six years of diving experience, I finally conquered this mysterious dive destination so close to home — in 2020! Let me share some highlights from this dive trip.
First of all, how do you get to Yonaguni?
- For friends in Taiwan and Hong Kong: Although Taiwan is very close to Yonaguni, there are currently no direct flights, so you'll need to fly to Ishigaki or Naha airport and transfer. Flights from Naha depart around 7 a.m. and the return flight is around 11 a.m.; from Ishigaki, you have both ferry and flight options! - Back when Olive was still a newbie, I heard about divers chartering a flight there, but since I haven't done it myself, let's just call it a diving urban legend! 😅
Book accommodation first, or the dive shop first?
Important ⚠️ You absolutely MUST secure your accommodation before booking a dive shop. The lodging options on the island are very limited, and it becomes especially difficult to find a room during peak season (December to early March)! Here are a few accommodation recommendations to share with everyone!
The most luxurious option, recommended by my Japanese diver friends — Ailand — is where I stayed this time. The rooms are very spacious, clean, and quiet. The island bus also stops here, and if budget isn't a concern, I strongly recommend staying at Ailand. There's even a bathtub for a relaxing soak.
Link: Ailand
Local guesthouse 与那国ゲストハウス フィエスタ — This guesthouse is right next to a dive shop, and if you're okay with bunk beds, it's really affordable! I've heard the owner loves fishing and will sometimes treat guests to his catch!
Link: 与那国ゲストハウス フィエスタ
Dive shop accommodation よしまる荘 — The lodging annex of Yonaguni Diving Service (YDS). After chasing Hammerhead Sharks in the cold winter waters, you'll want to jump straight into a hot shower — and this place is the closest facility to the port! Most seasoned Japanese divers also highly recommend it.
Link: よしまる荘
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You'll be boarding a tiny little plane to get there[/caption]
Getting There:
Naha to Yonaguni flight prices: JAL domestic flights 35,000–39,000 yen, fare includes 20 kg checked baggage *Excess baggage fee: 200 yen per kg~
Link: JAL Official Website
Ishigaki to Yonaguni flight prices: JAL domestic flights 15,000–17,000 yen, fare includes 20 kg checked baggage *Excess baggage fee: 200 yen per kg~
Link: JAL Official Website
Ishigaki to Yonaguni ferry prices:
*Schedule information is subject to change by season, so current details are not provided here
6,750 yen~
Link: https://fukuyamakaiun.ti-da.net/
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A bird's-eye view of the island from the plane[/caption]
What to eat on the island?
I honestly didn't have high expectations for food on such a small island! But this time in Yonaguni, thanks to introductions from my Japanese instructor friends, every evening was a delightful surprise! So I'll share these recommendations without holding back — I strongly suggest making reservations in advance!
Fresh sashimi is a must on any island — goes without saying!
- Izakaya どぅーらい (Dou Rai)
This place is wonderfully straightforward — the menu clearly lists chicken, pork, beef, fish, sashimi, and skewers. It's an authentic local izakaya where you simply can't go wrong with any order! I especially recommend their pasta — incredibly fragrant and deeply flavourful. And don't miss the deep-fried gurukun (gurukunn no karaage) — it's become my favourite fried fish dish since discovering Okinawa! The three of us that evening kept ordering more and more, unable to stop!
- 創作kitchen風土
This restaurant plays jazz music inside, creating a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere — it feels almost like a Western-style bistro. The owner even sports a slicked-back pompadour! (I found that charming!) They have daily specials written on a blackboard. We were lucky enough to snag the last portion of red wine braised beef and marinated egg yolk that day — please don't miss it! Other must-orders include their French toast with a mysterious dipping sauce, tofu salad, and Japanese-style pizza!
I always get sidetracked when food comes up 😅 Back to the dive trip…
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Hammerhead Sharks~~~[/caption]
So when is the best time to visit Yonaguni? And how does the diving work?
The dive season runs each winter — from late December to late March — and the main target is the Hammerhead Shark, which speaks for itself! I once heard a veteran Japanese diver tell me, you absolutely have to go and see that ocean bursting with life — Yonaguni! The moment he said that, I got goosebumps all over. What surprised me even more was that this seasoned diver dives at Yonaguni all year round except in winter — because he got tired of chasing Hammerhead Sharks every winter! OMG. Hearing that, I knew I had to return to Yonaguni no matter what. The summer months from May to October are also a great season — there are big animals and fish schools, and you can also explore the famous "Underwater Ruins" dive site.
Without further ado, here are some clips of swimming alongside hundreds of Hammerhead Sharks!
The dive shop we visited this time was 「Sou Wes Dive Shop」, which most of you are probably familiar with. It's one of the few shops that accepts foreign divers. The whole vibe of the place feels like a pirate adventure — and the dive boat looks like a warship. Very cool! There's one dive guide at this shop who is hugely popular among Japanese divers — legend has it that he has an uncanny ability to sense Hammerhead Sharks that other guides simply can't find, and he'll lead the whole group on an exhilarating chase! Absolutely thrilling!
That said, I still think luck plays a big role! A typical Yonaguni trip usually involves three days and nine dives, giving you a success rate of around 80% or higher. My own record this trip was two misses and two hits — 50% — but during one of those successful dives at the "Nishizaki" dive site, we spotted a school of 300 sharks at a maximum depth of only 25 m. The clients went wild, screaming at the dive guide — it was pure madness! I was truly lucky. The four of us swam alongside the Hammerhead Sharks for nearly 10 minutes. I wasn't able to capture great video or photos — I'm embarrassed to admit it — but every second of that experience is burned into my memory. It was an incredibly complex rush of excitement, tension, and awe all at once!
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Swimming alongside 300 Hammerhead Sharks[/caption]
That said, I do feel obligated to share a word of caution on behalf of the local dive shops! Diving in Yonaguni during winter means cold temperatures, strong currents, and big waves. Getting on and off the boat is a serious challenge in itself, and the physical demand is immense! If you see the Hammerhead Sharks, the high will be off the charts — but if you don't, you'll just be drifting endlessly in a vast expanse of blue. I think mentally preparing yourself for both outcomes is genuinely important.
Divers planning to chase Hammerhead Sharks in Yonaguni must have solid experience with drift diving, along with the stamina and proper thermal protection gear. Water temperature in January is 24°C, and I was wearing a 6.5 mm skin wetsuit — windproof material and all — and I was still freezing cold. Probably because I have zero body fat! Note: Don't be fooled into thinking 24°C is warm! The north wind blows almost constantly there, making it feel bitterly cold. In my personal opinion, a hood, vest, and 3 mm wetsuit combination would leave you hypothermic!
What experience do you need?!
- Experience with boat diving and drift diving, including giant stride entry from a boat
- After entering the water, you'll wait at around 10 m depth. So before descending, make sure to fully vent your BCD, and continuously monitor your equalization throughout the dive
- Ability to free-descend (same as above)
- Ability to assemble your own gear (basic — self-management)
- Follow all dive guide instructions at all times.
After writing all that, I'm wondering if this place even sounds accessible… Simply put: chasing Hammerhead Sharks here is really not for beginner divers! You might consider visiting in summer instead — the "Underwater Ruins" dive site is an extraordinary attraction in its own right!
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Are the mysterious underwater ruins man-made or formed naturally?[/caption]
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The breathtaking geological formations make for stunning photos[/caption]
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The dive isn't very deep, yet the formations you discover are truly extraordinary[/caption]
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Even without Hammerhead Sharks in summer, the Underwater Ruins are well worth the visit [/caption]
Although I skipped the island sightseeing activities this time, the exchanges with Japanese and international divers were incredibly rewarding.
I love travelling solo on dive trips. I was once a newbie too, and I've always wanted to become a stronger, more confident diver. After years of building up experience, travel has become an integral part of my diving journey. Okinawa is a place I've long been eager to truly understand. I once chatted with some Japanese divers and wondered why — given how close Taiwan and Japan are — they didn't know you could dive in Taiwan. When I was still living in Taiwan, I took a few Japanese friends diving at Xiaoliuqiu and Green Island, and they were absolutely blown away! Now that I'm in Okinawa, I hope that more people will be moved and transformed by the ocean — and that the sea helps them discover themselves.
I'm a diver crazy enough to have relocated to Okinawa to dive here — and diving has completely changed my life! Every time I think about that, I get goosebumps and my eyes well up with tears. Thank you, ocean! And thank you to every ocean-loving soul I've had the privilege to meet!
If you'd like to know more about dive travel in Yonaguni, feel free to send me a message! Perhaps at the end of this year, or in 2021, we can go on another adventure together! I can't wait!
A Taiwanese Woman's Secret Okinawa Diving Spots — to be continued…
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