'Dive into Taiwan' — Wang Hai Xiang Bay Conservation Area: The Cradle of Marine Conservation in Taiwan

Wang Hai Xiang Bay — A Hidden Diving Gem Just 40 Minutes from Taipei

Surrounded on all sides by the sea, Taiwan should by rights be a place where water sports thrive. Yet for various reasons, most Taiwanese people remain surprisingly unfamiliar with the ocean. That is precisely why "Dive into Taiwan" was founded — to help Taiwanese rediscover the sea and fall in love with it. With that in mind, let's take a look at some of the dive destinations around this island nation that are well worth exploring.

The northern diving zone of Taiwan roughly spans the coastline from Keelung to the northern port of Toucheng in Yilan. Lying along Taiwan's Northeast Coast, this area is strongly affected by the northeast monsoon in winter. After October, water temperatures drop sharply, and the wild shore break that frequently surges onto the rocks makes entering and exiting the water considerably more difficult. If diving is absolutely necessary during this period, a drysuit is strongly recommended to guard against hypothermia. In summer, however, the proximity to Taipei — roughly an hour's drive — makes transport costs far lower than for other dive destinations in Taiwan. Several well-known sites feature sheltered bay topography, with calm conditions throughout the summer months. This makes the area an excellent training and teaching ground for beginners, and a top choice for experienced divers honing their underwater photography skills.

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From Landfill to Environmental Education Base

Wang Hai Xiang Bay stretches from the Badouzi Fishing Harbor in Keelung to the west, all the way to Fan Zai Ao in Ruifang, New Taipei City, to the east — a natural, sheltered bay with a long maritime history. Badouzi's fishing heritage dates back to the Qing Dynasty. Originally a separate island off the coast of Taiwan proper, it was connected to the mainland in 1937 during the Japanese colonial era, when a coastal channel was filled in to build a thermal power plant, transforming it into a peninsula. Upon completion, the plant had the highest generating capacity in all of Taiwan and served as a vital power source for the development of northern Taiwan. In 1976, to meet Keelung's growing municipal needs, the eastern side of the Badouzi Peninsula was designated as the Changtanli Landfill — jokingly referred to as the largest seaside dump in Taiwan — and remained in operation until its closure in 1992, after which it embarked on an entirely new chapter. In the 1980s, under the government's Twelve Major Construction Projects, two ocean-themed museums were planned: the National Museum of Marine Biology and Aquarium in Pingtung, and the National Museum of Marine Science and Technology (NMMST). Following years of preparation and the tendering of a government OT operating model, the NMMST opened in phases from 2012, becoming an important education hub for marine conservation in northern Taiwan.

It is said that the Taiwanese pronunciation of Wang Hai Xiang Bay is meng hai ang — where hai ang is the Taiwanese word for whale — meaning "watching the whales," a reminder that whales spouting in the bay were once a common sight in ancient times. The bay sits at the confluence of the Kuroshio and Oyashio currents, earning it the name Chaojing (Tidal Boundary). The dramatic seasonal shifts in oceanographic conditions bring marine life quite unlike that found at other Taiwanese dive sites. The twice-daily tidal cycles carry nutrient-rich water into the bay, supporting a remarkable diversity of fish species. The bay's natural shelter also makes it a protected nursery where juvenile fish can grow up safely — which is why the marine ecosystem here is considerably richer than at other northern dive sites.

Since 1999, the Keelung City Government has designated this area as the Wanghaixiang Artificial Reef No-Fishing Zone, and in 2016 formally established the Wanghaixiang Chaojing Bay Marine Resources Conservation Area, with the aim of creating a thriving marine sanctuary while boosting local tourism. Thanks to the prevailing currents and depth profile, the seafloor here is blanketed in colorful feather soft corals — a density and variety rarely seen elsewhere. Feeding primarily by filter-feeding, these soft corals only expand to feed under the right conditions; otherwise they contract and lie dormant to avoid the current. As a result, the same spot can look completely different at different times of day.

Other filter feeders such as sea fans, sea trees, and sponges are also common here. The fact that a massive gorgonian can be spotted on a shore dive at the Secret Garden dive site is truly remarkable. One of the star species at the Secret Garden is the sea apple — if you're a conservative air-user with an Advanced Open Water Diver (PADI cert) certification or above, it's well worth descending to take a closer look at its endearing filter-feeding behavior up close. In recent years, the fishery authorities have deployed large numbers of artificial reefs in the bay; boat dives are available to explore these structures, with notable sites including the Haijian wreck and the Steel Reef.

In early spring each year, before the water warms up (water temperature approximately 19–23°C), the bay serves as a nursery for juvenile fish. Vast shoals of newly hatched fry can be observed here, and their presence in turn attracts pelagic species inshore to feed. On a lucky dive, you might encounter yellowtail amberjack and other migratory fish cruising close by. In recent years, dolphins have occasionally been spotted venturing into the bay to feed. Around May, large cuttlefish gather in impressive numbers to spawn — graceful, otherworldly creatures drifting through the water like an alien fleet arriving on Earth. Watching cuttlefish spawn is a living natural history lesson played out right before the diver's eyes.

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Bigfin reef squid (Sepioteuthis lessoniana) are another special resident of Wang Hai Xiang Bay. With gorgonians so abundant throughout the bay, these squid are attracted here to lay their eggs among the gorgonian bases. Divers carrying a macro kit should take the opportunity to photograph this rare and intimate moment. In addition to the natural spawning habitat, each year passionate dive instructors install handcrafted bamboo-leaf spawning structures inside the bay, ensuring these delicate visitors continue to breed here year after year.

The fish community is dominated by various coral reef species; however, due to human collection activities in recent years, most species — with the exception of damselfish and grunts — are limited in both numbers and size. Encouragingly, in 2017 four groupers of approximately 1 m in length were discovered to have taken up residence at the Secret Garden site — a heartening find given how rarely large specimens are encountered in Taiwan today. The bay is also an excellent macro diving destination: with a little patience, all manner of rare and fascinating small creatures can be found, including a wide variety of nudibranch species. In 2017, diver Yang Kuan-Zhi recorded Okenia hiei at Wang Hai Xiang Bay — a remarkable discovery marking the first record of this species on Taiwan's main island.

Although the bay is ecologically rich and attracts a steady stream of divers on weekends, the combination of currents and topography means that sudden silt-outs and surging currents can occur without warning. All diving here should be conducted under the guidance of a qualified dive guide, with activities planned according to the tides and wind conditions. Within the conservation area, visitors are expected to comply with all regulations — no fishing, no netting, no collection of any kind. Divers who are not yet confident in their neutral buoyancy should choose an appropriate site and refrain from diving at sensitive locations, to avoid damaging the underwater environment.

Dive Site Map of Wang Hai Xiang Bay

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Must-Visit Photo Spots After Your Dive:

Wang Hai Xiang Bay is located on the northern side of Keelung and is very conveniently accessible. Drivers can take the No. 62 Expressway directly to the area. Those using public transport can take Bus 2088 from Taipei City Hall MRT Station, or board the Taiwan Railways Shen'ao Branch Line to the NMMST Station and walk from there.

Badouzi Train Station:

Often called the "Duoliang Station of Northern Taiwan," Badouzi Train Station sits on the Taiwan Railways Shen'ao Line. Originally built to transport coal, it was decommissioned in August 1989, but was revived in December 2016 thanks to the completion of the NMMST. Perched between mountain and sea, the station's dramatic setting draws photographers and enthusiasts whenever the weather is fine.

Argentina Shipyard:

The Argentina Shipyard is located at Bachimen on Heping Island. The site has a long history as a coal unloading wharf — some accounts trace it back to the Qing Dynasty, though documented records begin from the Japanese colonial era, when a tramway was built to Bachimen to support the development of the gold and copper mines at Jinguashi. The shipyard building seen today was constructed in 1967, when the American company Argentina leased the land to establish the facility; it was eventually abandoned after the operation failed. All that remains now are the crumbling concrete ruins, which possess such an evocative, weathered atmosphere that even Chris Evans (Captain America) has filmed here — proof enough of its magnetic appeal to photographers and film crews alike.

Wangyou Valley:

Touted by many as Keelung's top hidden gem, Wangyou Valley is a wildly underrated travel destination. Located uphill from the dive entry point, once you've parked your car you are immediately rewarded with a sweeping 360-degree panorama of mountains and sea. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Jiufen, and Keelung Islet rising boldly from the ocean. If your legs are up to it, a trail walk through Wangyou Valley and up to Hill 101 is highly recommended — followed by a look at the spectacular wave-cut platform at Daping on the other side of the peninsula, a testament to the awesome sculpting power of nature.

Keelung Harbor — Eagle Watching and Cruise Ship Photography:

In recent years, the Keelung City Government has been actively developing cruise tourism, and in 2017 Keelung Harbor was honored as Asia's Best Homeport for Cruise Ships. Head to the Ocean Plaza by the harbor to admire magnificent ocean liners up close. If you're lucky enough to spot the black kite — Keelung City's official bird — soaring overhead, you'll have all the ingredients for a stunning composition blending human and natural beauty.

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