Turquoise skies, blue seas, and glass-calm water — just like a scene from TV, only this time it's right in front of you.
Shimmering waves, crystal-clear water, and endless white sandy beaches — Semporna truly lives up to its nickname, the "Ocean Eden." The journey may be long, but the moment you arrive and peer down from the plane window, everything suddenly makes sense. Every bit of the trip is worth it.
Back in March 2020, the Editor made a 10-day trip to Semporna. Despite its remote location, the stunning scenery, the thrill of diving beneath the surface, the fresh and authentic local food, and the warm, lively locals left an unforgettable impression. So when travel restrictions finally lifted, the first overseas dive trip was an easy decision — bring some friends along and return to this place nicknamed the "Ocean Eden," to recapture that same sense of wonder.
After boarding the boat and heading out to sea, you take the plunge — and suddenly the entire ocean feels like your own private swimming pool.
Where Exactly Is Semporna?
Semporna is a small, humble fishing village on the eastern coast of Tawau Division, Sabah, Malaysia. Situated close to the Philippines and Indonesia, it has long been the subject of online tales about pirates. But as times have changed, the chances of encountering anything of the sort are now extremely low — and every boat departure includes thorough checks and verifications, so there's really no need to worry.
The red circle marks Semporna — located in Sabah, East Malaysia!
Semporna is surrounded by many beautiful islands. Beyond the world-famous dive site Sipadan, there are also Kapalai Island, Mabul Island, Sibuan Island, Mantabuan Island, and more. Each island has its own character, but they all share one thing in common: crystal-clear water and powdery white sand.
Among them, Pearl Island even allows visitors to come ashore and hike up the hill. There are plenty of island-hopping day tours available online, and the Editor strongly recommends signing up — since Semporna town itself is quite small with limited entertainment options, an island-hopping trip is absolutely the way to go!
Semporna is surrounded by countless small islands, each with a remarkably rich and diverse ecosystem.
How Do You Get to Semporna?
As the saying goes, "No pain, no gain." Getting from Taiwan to the beautiful land of Semporna requires at least two connections — it sounds complicated, but it's actually very straightforward. The Editor has done it the same way twice, and it's the most time-efficient and budget-friendly option. Flying with AirAsia and booking early, you can get a round-trip ticket for under NT$10,000! (Three years ago, the Editor snagged flights for under NT$6,000... those were the days.)
Departing from Taiwan — destinations reached in numbered order.
| Step | Departure | Destination | Duration | Transport |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Taipei Airport (TPE) | Kota Kinabalu Airport (BKI) | 3.5 hours | Flight |
| 2 | Kota Kinabalu Airport (BKI) | Tawau Airport (TWU) | 55 minutes | Flight |
| 3 | Tawau Airport (TWU) | Semporna Town | 90 minutes | Private car |
Transportation reference for getting to Semporna
It's recommended to arrange a shuttle from Tawau to Semporna Town through your accommodation in advance. If you forget, don't worry — there are plenty of taxis and private hire services right outside the airport.
A private hire car can typically seat 8–10 people.
Pre-Trip Essentials: Time Zones, Visa & Currency — All Sorted!
- Malaysia and Taiwan share the same time zone — no jet lag!
- A valid ROC passport with at least six months of remaining validity allows visa-free entry.
- The Editor recommends bringing New Taiwan Dollars and exchanging them at Kota Kinabalu Airport (no need to convert to USD first — NT$ gets a better rate). If you have time, head to a mall in the city centre for an even better rate. A Grab ride takes about 20 minutes and costs around 10 Malaysian Ringgit — convenient and affordable!
- Local costs are very low. The Editor found NT$6,000 was more than enough for a six-day trip.
- A SIM card can be purchased in Taiwan beforehand, or at the airport after landing — there are two or three vendors at the exit where you can compare prices on the spot. (Digi is highly recommended.)
- Voltage is 230V with British-style three-pin flat plugs. Remember to bring an adapter.
- Semporna town has a large supermarket, Watson's, and a pharmacy — daily essentials are all covered. Starbucks, McDonald's, and KFC are also present!
The window seats at Starbucks offer a front-row view of the ocean — absolutely gorgeous on a clear day.
Where to Stay in Semporna?
There are plenty of accommodation options in Semporna, and prices are very affordable. This time, the Editor stayed at Buddy Station — a twin room for just NT$1,100 per night, complete with a small balcony, washing machine, TV, and sofa. It's in a prime location in town: a large supermarket right across the street, a 7-Eleven, Watson's, the pier, and the seafood street all within a 1-minute walk, with KFC and Starbucks about 10 minutes away on foot. Highly recommended!
After a day of diving, all you want is to collapse into bed. A clean, comfortable room makes all the difference in recovering from the day's adventures.
The room is very spacious — we had three people staying in it, as evidenced by the chaotic state of our luggage on the last day.
What to Eat in Semporna?
Islam is the predominant religion locally, so most of the meat on offer is chicken. Dishes tend to be bold and flavourful — think curry, coconut milk, and laksa. That said, the Editor has eaten here multiple times without a single disappointing meal. The fried rice and fried noodles in particular have that irresistible wok-charred aroma that is simply unforgettable (craving it as we write this).
There are actually quite a few Mainland Chinese and Taiwanese visitors in Semporna — many shop owners speak Mandarin too!
Do note that restaurants, supermarkets, and shops tend to close at around 8–9 p.m., so be sure to eat early and avoid disturbing business owners during their closing time.
The Editor's favourite: rice noodles — springy and satisfying, whether served dry or in soup!
The area around the port is packed with small restaurants, and there are street stalls everywhere — you'll never go hungry. A bowl of noodles comes in at under NT$80, and adding a drink still keeps you well under NT$100 for a full, satisfying meal.
Walk into any random local eatery: a plate of seafood wet rice noodles + lime iced tea, and you'll still get change from NT$80!
Skewers served straight to the table — a whole bunch of chicken skewers for just NT$60, freshly grilled to order right in front of you.
This particular April visit happened to fall during Ramadan. In the late afternoon, locals begin setting up a small night market — those observing the fast go the entire day without food or water, and can only begin eating after sunset. They typically come to browse and pick up food ahead of time, then gather with friends to break the fast together. It was a wonderful chance to experience something the Editor hadn't planned for — very much like a Taiwanese night market in its own charming way!
The little night market isn't large, but it draws a crowd — almost entirely locals, with barely a foreign tourist in sight.
The drinks here tend to be on the sweeter side, which was quite an adjustment for the Editor who normally drinks everything unsweetened. But when you're abroad, you have to give things a try! The vibrant, colourful smoothie bowls come topped with five or more mix-ins — red bean, jelly, nata de coco, glass noodles, coix seed, and a few mystery ingredients. Expecting something tooth-achingly sweet, the Editor was pleasantly surprised: it wasn't sweet at all, just a gentle red bean fragrance. And it's very filling. One bag costs 3 Ringgit (about NT$21).
The colours are almost alarmingly vivid, but it's actually quite refreshing. When you're somewhere new, you have to try new things!
The Editor always loves hunting for local street food when travelling — the more hole-in-the-wall, the better (a tiny food cart is ideal). That's where the most authentic flavours are.
Chewy and soft with what seems to be a coconut cream filling, dusted in desiccated coconut — these pandan balls are the perfect after-dinner treat!
Similar to Taiwanese you tiao (fried dough), but softer and thicker. The syrup on top has a light cinnamon flavour — delicious!
Impossibly Fresh Seafood, Meal After Meal
Semporna is right on the coast — a small fishing village through and through. Seafood restaurants are everywhere, and a dazzling variety of fresh live seafood is yours to choose from. Black crab, flower crab, white shrimp, geoduck clam, sea urchin — if you can think of a seafood, they have it. You can even choose your preferred cooking style. (The Editor's top recommendation: the uniquely Malaysian "kam heong" dry-spice style — you simply cannot get it anywhere else.)
White shrimp — crunchy, incredibly fresh, and sweet. 1 kg for 80 Ringgit (approx. NT$560).
Steamed three-spot swimming crab — two crabs for 30 Ringgit (approx. NT$210). No elaborate seasoning; just the pure, natural flavour of the freshest crab. The white stuff next to it isn't butter — it's steamed egg white.
Egg-laden female crabs in kam heong style — plump, roe-packed, and absolutely indulgent. Two crabs for 90 Ringgit (approx. NT$630).
Can you guess what this is? Fried squid topped with a house sauce (subtly sweet, reminiscent of a fried sauce) and served with crisp cucumber slices and crushed peanuts. The entire table polished it off in minutes. After a parade of savoury dishes, something with that touch of sweetness woke everyone's appetite right back up — the Editor has never forgotten that flavour.
Piled high with cucumber — incredibly refreshing. One portion for 30 Ringgit (approx. NT$210).
The vegetable dish below was a recommendation from the dive guide — a wild green found only in Sabah. The texture is similar to dragon whiskers vegetable: tender and silky, stir-fried with shrimp paste for a mildly spicy, punchy-savoury flavour that pairs perfectly with steamed rice. One spoonful leads to another. The Editor also noticed that the shrimp paste here isn't as intensely "shrimpy" as the Taiwanese version — it carries more of a spicy kick, which makes it even better.
Sabah wild vegetable, also known as Pakis.
A heads-up from the Editor: Don't over-order — it's very easy to end up with a table full of food fit for a banquet. Portions are much larger than they look!
A table overflowing with six crabs and 1 kg of shrimp (two more dishes had already been cleared away). Split nine ways, it came to just 59 Ringgit per person (approx. NT$420).
Restaurant: 大伽来
Authentic Hand-Rolled Flatbread
The flatbread here is reminiscent of Indian roti canai — you can pick your own fillings, and the dough itself carries a lovely mild floury fragrance. It's always served with a plate of dipping sauce. There are three main preparations, each with a completely different texture — and all of them are delicious!
- Dry style (crispy, like a cracker)
Thin and crispy, drizzled with condensed milk — dangerously moreish!
https://youtube.com/shorts/ONXF230ysF0
Watch the making process — isn't it incredibly satisfying to watch?
- Pan-fried style (chewy texture similar to banana pancakes, with a variety of fillings to choose from)
Springy and satisfying, full of that toasty flatbread flavour. Try it plain with a fried egg — and don't skip the dipping sauce!
- Flaky style (similar to Taiwanese scallion-pull flatbread)
Each portion costs around 4–6 Ringgit (under NT$50) — incredibly cheap!
Restaurant: Restoran Al-Thaufika (next to Nan Hai Fishing Village)
Kaya Toast — The Essential Pre-Dive Breakfast
Semporna has two branches of Zhan Quanji (詹全記). The original shop is in the old town area and has a wider menu, while Branch 2 is right next to the harbour — an incredibly convenient location. Most divers heading out for the day will stop here for a takeaway breakfast to enjoy on the boat. After all, adventure takes energy, and good food is the best fuel!
Come early for breakfast before heading out to sea — eating with a view of the water is a pleasure in itself! The items pictured cost around 15 Ringgit (approx. NT$110).
Zhan Quanji's toast is grilled directly over charcoal, which gives it an especially wonderful aroma. Spread with house-made kaya (coconut jam) and layered with cold salted butter, it's indulgent and rich — yes, a little on the heavy side (but hey, you're on holiday!). The interplay of salty and sweet is one of the things the Editor misses the most after returning to Taiwan.
Add a side of soft-boiled eggs — two eggs for 4 Ringgit (approx. NT$28). Drizzle on some soy sauce and dip your toast straight in. Pure happiness!
Restaurants: Zhan Quanji 詹全記 (Original) and Cham chuan kee 2 詹全记2
Rich and Creamy Durian Cake
When you're in Southeast Asia and you're brave enough to eat durian, you simply cannot pass it up. This restaurant was recommended by the dive guide and is a Malaysian chain located inside a shopping centre — so yes, the prices are a little higher. But don't let the unassuming appearance of this cake fool you: eating it is like eating pure durian. The moment it arrives at the table, that rich, heady aroma fills the air. The texture is silky-smooth and luxuriously creamy, topped with a layer of cheese. Even a travelling companion who claimed to dislike durian took one bite — and promptly ordered a second slice. You have to try it!
Apparently, Malaysia's Musang King durian is the most aromatic variety in the world!
Restaurant: Secret Recipe
Live Music at a Semi-Outdoor Bar
The seafood street near Semporna's harbour comes alive at night. After dinner, everyone gravitates toward the bars — cold beer in hand, swapping stories about what they saw underwater that day, singing along with the live band, and bringing the perfect end to a perfect day.
This place is a dive shop by day — and transforms into a bar by night.
There are no minimums at the bars here, and you're welcome to bring your own food. Feel free to order takeaway from a nearby seafood restaurant to enjoy alongside your drinks. One of the Editor's friends loves crab so much that they quietly smuggled some in — though we suspect the staff see this kind of thing all the time!
Alcohol is one of the pricier things in Semporna compared to everything else. The beer on the left: 23 Ringgit per bottle (approx. NT$161).
The resident singer performs songs in English and Malay — but also throws in plenty of Chinese-language hits, which made everyone feel right at home!
Semporna, the so-called "Ocean Eden," may look intimidatingly remote on a map — and that sense of mystery only adds to its allure. But once you actually visit and immerse yourself in local life, you realise that beyond the turquoise seas and incredible fresh food, it's the warmth and authenticity of the local people that leave the deepest impression.
Itinerary Reference
For the full trip plan, see [Malaysia · Semporna] 6 Days & 6 Nights Deep in Semporna: The Independent Traveller's Guide to Sipadan Diving!
